Equipment for Summer Alpine Climbing

Summer in the mountains can be a dynamic time.

 

Some days can be bluebird and warm and find us sweating it out on the trails and climbing in only a few layers, while others can be stormy and cold with every type of precipitation falling in abundance. Weather in the mountains can change quickly and temperature fluctuations can be considerable. As a result, we want all of our clothing and gear to be light, versatile, and carefully considered. We want our gear to perform in fair weather or foul, and be adequate to the task while being light enough to allow us to enjoy the climb without being bogged down by a heavy or cumbersome pack or by the wrong clothing or gear.

While each specific objective can require a slight adjustment in our kit, these are the basics of what we want to have available to us. Without exception, our climbs will involve hiking on and off trail, and will potentially involve climbing rock, ice, and snow. Depending on the weather, you may find yourself wearing short sleeves or everything you brought. Wherever we are, we’re going to want to put together an action suit – a combination of clothing that will keep us comfortable but not sweaty when we’re moving – and to have enough insulation to keep us warm when we’re not. Having well-fitting, high-quality gear will undoubtedly lead to a more enjoyable trip.

 

We’ve selected these items with great care to give everyone the best chance of staying warm, dry, and happy. Please call or email us if you have any questions. We’re here to help.

CLOTHING

*In most cases, cotton is to be avoided at all costs. While synthetic or woolen garments will provide warmth when wet, cotton will not. Because of that, we ask that you trust us on this one and not plan on wearing cotton while you climb.

  • Underwear (wool or synthetic): Anything you like, but no cotton!

  • Lightweight short-sleeve top (wool or synthetic): For warm days down low on the mountain, having a quick-drying short-sleeve top or t-shirt can be far more comfortable than sweating it out in long sleeves.

  • Light or medium-weight long underwear top (wool or synthetic): Chilly days or early starts often require a few layers, but we rarely want anything too heavy.

  • Lightweight long underwear bottom (wool or synthetic): Same idea - chilly days require some long underwear, but nothing too heavy.

  • Lightweight fleece or insulating layer: Fleece vests, light fleece jackets, and lightly insulated pullovers all work well. Something warm, yet not so warm you’ll sweat your butt off. Heavy fleece jackets are generally too heavy.

  • Softshell jacket or windshirt: A softshell jacket can also serve as a midlayer, but is even more useful as it can also be worn as a shell in less extreme conditions. These light, breathable jackets will repel snow or light precipitation and are far more breathable than their waterproof bretheren.

  • Softshell pants: These wind and water-resistant pants work well in most of the weather we’d want to climb in. These are burlier than hiking pants, but not as burly as a ski pant, for example.

  • Light waterproof/breathable (Gore-tex or equivalent) or rain pants: Every outdoor clothing manufacturer makes these, but be sure it says “waterproof and breathable”. Water-resistant is not adequate. These are our hard shells when the weather gets windy and/or wet. In the event of a perfect forecast we may be able to leave these behind, but we’ll want to have them available.

  • Light waterproof/breathable (Gore-tex or equivalent) shell jacket with hood: The jacket version. Every outdoor clothing manufacturer makes these, but be sure it says “waterproof and breathable”. Water-resistant is not adequate. These are our hard shells when the weather gets windy and/or wet.

  • Medium or heavyweight down or synthetic insulated jacket: This is extremely important and is in addition to the fleece and waterproof/breathable shell. It should be large enough to fit over your other clothes including the shell jacket and will be worn whenever we stop moving. Synthetic fill is less expensive and will still keep you warm even when wet, down is generally lighter, more expensive, and packs smaller, but needs to be kept dry to be effective.

  • Socks (synthetic or wool): Warm feet make for happy climbing, so bring something comfortable that wicks moisture well. Do not plan on wearing two pairs together unless one is a liner sock.

  • Lightweight pair of gloves: If the weather is nice, a light pair of gloves can be helpful. Unlined leather or softshell gloves or light fleece/liner gloves work well. Often a hardware store leather glove is a great and inexpensive option.

  • Medium to heavy-weight pair of gloves: If the weather looks questionable or if you’re looking at colder temperatures, a warmer pair of gloves can be helpful. Something waterproof and warm works well.

  • Warm hat: Wool or synthetic. This hat must come down over the ears but be low-profile enough to fit under a helmet so try to avoid any balls, tassles, or adornments.

  • Sun visor or ball cap: For protection from the sun on warm days. Cotton allowed! It’s just a baseball cap.

PERSONAL GEAR

  • Climbing Pack: Your pack should be compact, and ideally will be a model made specifically for climbing. For day trips a 30 liter model should be adequate, and for multi-day trips your pack should still be no larger than 40-45 liters in capacity. Look for a simple, light pack and one that fits you well. Stay away from wide, large packs, elaborate backpacking packs, and book bag style packs.

  • Lunches/day food: Bars, trail mix, Gu’s, etc. Anything specific you’ll want to eat during the days. A variety of snack foods are available for purchase at most huts, and don’t be afraid to bring a nice sandwich if you like. The supermarkets and bakeries of Europe are full of goodies, so don’t bother bringing anything from home unless you feel really particular about it.

  • Water, two 1L (32oz) bottles: A Camelbak or hydration bladder can also work but you’ll need to bring at least one extra bottle in case the hose freezes or the bladder bursts. Wide-mouth Nalgene bottles are the standard but Gatorade or other sports drink bottles also work great as long as they can seal tightly. Sparkling water bottles are also a great option as they’re inexpensive, durable, and easily acquired in Europe.

  • Sunglasses or glacier glasses: These should be either glacier glasses with side shields or be close fitting enough that too much reflected light doesn’t come in from the sides. Sunglasses should be high quality and dark. For most people, wearing normal sunglasses on snow for any prolonged period is a great way to get a crippling headache.

  • Sun block (SPF 30 or more): The higher the SPF, the better. Snow and altitude work wonders in creating sunburn.

  • Lip balm (SPF 15 or more): Any lip balm with SPF 15 or more will work.

  • Headlamp (for overnight trips or routes with a pre-dawn start): We may be traveling at times during the night, so you’ll need a headlamp to see. The new LED lamps are super light, get fantastic battery life and you don’t need a spare bulb or batteries, plus most are USB rechargeable these days.

  • Collapsible 3-piece trekking poles: Trekking poles are essential for mountain travel on rough terrain. Whatever model you’ve got, it’s important that it’s able to be collapsed and stored in your pack. Many people enjoy two poles for extensive travel, while on shorter or more technical objectives one is also acceptable.

  • Camera (optional)

TECHNICAL CLIMBING GEAR

*These are the items that you will be expected to bring or arrange to rent. Your guide will provide ropes and additional technical equipment as per objective.

  • Approach shoes or trail running shoes (determined by objective): Lightweight footwear for approaches or less technical, snow-free climbs. Often a nice trail runner is the best option as these are mostly for hiking on trail.

  • Mountain boots (determined by objective): For most objectives, light or medium-weight leather single boots are ideal. The La Sportiva Trango S Evo, Scarpa Triolet and Charmoz are great on the lighter end, and the La Sportiva Nepal Evo and Scarpa Mont Blanc are great on the heavier side. Double and/or plastic boots are to be avoided.

  • Rock climbing shoes (determined by objective): Rock climbing shoes may be required depending on the nature of the objective. Bone-crushingly tight shoes are rarely necessary for alpine climbing, so find a pair that is comfortable and that you could even wear with socks.

  • Crampons (determined by objective): These should be a hinged, 12-point, steel, alpine model rather than a rigid ice climbing crampon. Aluminum crampons are generally not appropriate.

  • Ice axe (50 to 60cm long) (determined by objective): We recommend an axe between 50 and 60cm, depending on your height. A longer axe may seem appealing, but they mostly just get in the way.

  • Climbing harness: A modern climbing harness in good condition. Harnesses should be able to fit over layers and be comfortable under a pack, and should have a belay loop in good condition. The lighter the better.

  • Helmet: Modern climbing helmet in good condition.

  • Chalk bag (determined by objective): For pure rock climbs, you may find a chalk bag useful for keeping your hands dry and your grip on the rock effective.

  • Belay device (determined by objective): ATC or non-mechanical auto-locking style device. Black Diamond ATC, ATC XP or ATC Guide are great examples. Gri-Gri type devices are not appropriate.

  • Carabiners, 2 locking and 1 non-locking (provided upon request): Carabiners serve a wide variety of uses. Any model will work, but look for non-locking carabiners with wire gates, and pear-shaped lockers with a keylock closure. One locker in an auto-locking style is also nice (see Black Diamond Magnetron, Twistlock, etc).

OVERNIGHT GEAR

  • Sleeping bag liner: Bring a light and compressible sleeping bag liner. Silk is the best, but also the most expensive. Huts will provide bedding, but a bag liner is required. These are available for purchase in Europe at a relatively low cost.

  • Extra socks (synthetic or wool): Bring an extra pair or socks in case you get one pair wet. It’s always nice to sleep with warm, dry feet and to start the day with the same.

  • Toiletries & First Aid: A little toilet paper, toothbrush, travel-size toothpaste, ibuprofen, blister-care, a few band-aids etc. Whatever you need to keep yourself happy and healthy in the mountains. Keep in mind that your guide will have a first aid kit at all times, and that there is no need for deodorant, shampoo, or elaborate cosmetics. Remember you’ll often have this stuff on your back while you’re climbing between huts, so try to keep it as minimal as you can.

  • Ear Plugs: Great for sleeping in noisy huts or on windy nights.

  • Extra day food: Bars, trail mix, Gu’s, etc. Anything specific you’ll want to eat during the days. While a variety of snack foods are available for purchase at most huts, the selection is limited and often expensive.